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Battery Issues?


Rick65inlosangeles

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In some dealer's shops that I've experienced over several decades, even changing oil & a filter has proven to be invasive. From my recall of observing vehicle assembly lines in action, I can just imagine what some clumsy inexperienced hands could do to a headliner trying to replace a wiring harness, either by threading it through and/or removing the headliner.

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Dealer called me last Friday. They need the car longer. Cannot find fault and she said the techs are contacting Lincoln for some technical advice. Haven't heard anything more as of end of day today.

 

My loaner is a 2017 Expedition. There are more seats in this thing than Cinamax. This monster is so huge I can't reach the radio. HA!

 

I'll keep updating. 

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It would be nice to know the logic behind the electrical system on our MKX’s.  

 

After it has set for a couple of days it forgets that the A/C should be on recirculating , also the lower front power port that powers my dash cam will shut down every time I turn the vehicle off.  If I drive the vehicle for forty minutes or so on the freeway everything works fine.   I can spend several days with the A/C on recirculating and the power port will stay powered for about an hour and a half.   

 

At one time I had a 2004 Ford Explorer with the in dash CD player where you loaded five CD’s.  The vehicle remembered that there were five CD’s loaded.  At one point the vehicle would start searching for the CD’s on every startup. Finally I thought maybe the battery was starting to fail even though everything else was fine. So I replaced the battery and that corrected the problem.

 

My MKX is due for service and I’m going to request that they do a load test on the battery and see if there are any issues. 

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My battery was getting up there (5 years) so I had my local Ford garage do a load test on my battery, a couple of times. Both times they said it was ok.

 

Wasn't convinced so I bought a Solar BA-7 tester (as recommended by Macbwt in a post in the Ford Edge forum).

 

When I tested my battery with this device, it said I had one dead cell and that the battery was well under the rated CCA's. It showed it as being weak and failing.

But it started ok, everything worked ok, so I chose to believe the Ford garage and it's load tester. It failed two months later without warning.

 

Here's a link to what I'm talking about:

 

SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_iYYQybGJ8TX3W

 

This is more expensive version, it also tests the complete charging system in a separate test. There is a cheaper version (BA-5) that just tests the battery.

Edited by enigma-2
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And THIS is why you can't trust the shops when they tell you it's ok.  They're obviously either not using the right equipment or not using it properly.

 

I also bought the Solar tester and a C-Tek charger/conditioner.   Very important since I sometimes go a few days between driving my Fusion.

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Well, I finally got my vehicle back Feb 17th. Dealer updated all the software again, checked for any current load on the battery while idle, checked the battery then left the vehicle for over a week in the shop and tested the battery and loads again. No fault found.

 

Had to fly back to Canada same day (family situation). Still here until end of Feb then we will fly back to California for the rest of the winter. I keep checking my app and so far no alerts for anything.

 

Note: I use my old iphone as an ipod and leave it plugged into the usb center console. The phone's battery is dead and usually takes 5-10 min of driving before it wakes up and plays music.  Now....that usb is only powered when the ignition is on. I'm wondering if somehow that usb wakes up when the vehicle is just sitting and begins to charge the phone because that phone will never reach a charge. It's not a heavy load but it is continuous. If the vehicle battery fails again, I will charge it, unplug the phone when ever I'm parked and see what happens.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I'm back in Cali and the battery is good.....fingers crossed!

 

On the other hand I have a minor issue that pooped up since the vehicle was last at the dealer for the battery. I will create a new topic and hopefully someone will know the answer.

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  • 4 months later...

My MKX 2008 is driving me crazy. Battery dies AA says it's good Twice. Battery light came on went to Auto Zone and everything tested good, light went out. Went 60 miles started went to restaurant when started batt light came on. Drove about 40 miles as everything was shutting off, including headlights, then the map light started flashing as the engine sputtered. Just as I was pulling over everything came back to life and it was running fine for about 10 minutes. So I switched on A/C and it started running down again. About ten miles from home quit and towed home by AAA. Oreilly tested it and said alternator bad, and my voltage meter agreed( under 12 volts). Changed alternator (worst auto repair I've done in fifty years of auto repairs) Car seemed fine now it's doing the same thing. Another wrinkle battery cable got so hot it melted the tape on it and hot enough to burn my finger! I believe there is a intermittent short!

 

 Does anyone know where it is???

 

Tom

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Bad cell in battety. (Shorting on sulfate that builds up in bottom and across plates). I would put in a new battery.

 

Fwiw I would go with a larger size, the one spec for trailer towing. Minor upgrade in cost but extended life overall.

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Why is it that so many folks assume the battery is ok? Replace the battery any time you replace the alternator unless it's brand new - chances are pretty good it's bad.

 

If it's > 3 yrs old and you're having starting problems or other strange problems, just replace the battery first.

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I had my new '16 for 2 days and the battery was dead.  I had parked it outside and locked it.  Roadside assistance came and gave it a jump.  I placed it on a battery charger for 8 hours and it still would not start.  Even using jumper cables, I had to have the donor car running; it would not start with just battery to battery connection.  The bloody Lincoln dealer couldn't fit me in for 3 days!  I called my friend at the Ford dealer and was taken in immediately.  They tested the battery and found a bad cell and replaced it.  They also (and upon my request) did a load test on it and it passed.  One thing I noticed after I parked it in my garage at night (prior to the new battery) was that after the interior lights went out, the LED lights surrounding the radio knobs stayed illuminated (it was unlocked).  I know that's a tiny draw.  I told the tech about it and he suggested locking the car in the garage as I guess when you lock it, it shuts everything down whereas if you don't, some things can stay "connected".  New battery yesterday.  Locked it last night.  No issue today.  So far, so good.

Edited by richy
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We had our 2016 Black Label for about a week or two (CPO car with 5900 miles) when we went out to start the car and battery was dead.  It wouldn't jump, but I put it on my charger for 30 minutes and it started and then had no problems.  I researched on the internet possible TSBs and causes and found one that related to the audio system draining the battery requiring a software update.  I took it to the dealer, had other service work done (oil change...), software update, battery tested, and haven't had a problem in the last couple of months.  Battery issues plague every car manufacturer nowadays as it's a constant topic on the Jaguar Forums where I participate, and I know it is well documented on BMW forums as well.  

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... I told the tech about it and he suggested locking the car in the garage as I guess when you lock it, it shuts everything down whereas if you don't, some things can stay "connected". New battery yesterday. Locked it last night. No issue today. So far, so good.

Not quite everything.

 

For one, the wireless radio is on looking for yor IA (otherwise you would need a key to unlock the door).

 

And the wireless radio to wirelessly remote start the car.

 

And the perimeter security alarm is actuvated.

 

Impact alarm (if you have one).

 

The timer circuit is activated for fifteen or twenty minutes (the circuit that kills ((or is supposed to kill)) all electrical draw in the SJB after a set period of time).

 

Let's see, what am I forgetting?

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If it wasn't so boring, it would be easy to envy those who live in communities where transportation needs are provided by street-legal golf carts with minimal maintenance and no car payments.

 

Been there, done that.  You're right, Cosmos. It was boring... (yawn)

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