enigma-2

Hydraulic problem, verify transmission fluid levels. (When was xmission levels last changed)? Electric problem, test battery CCA rating (not voltage). Weak battery can cause problems with modules.

Some reported gasket leaking where connector attaches to housing. Others found crack in plastic where assembly front is glued to back. I'd try running a bead of Seal All (or equivalent) around the assembly where face attaches to back. https://a.co/d/0l6HRSD

You only need a locksmith and software if you only have one key. If you have both registered keys available, the process described in the video will program a third key.

I need to change mine, been 6 months. Got a spare sitting on the shelf in the garage, quietly calling me ... ! I use a filter from "Fun-Driving". I like these because they use bamboo charcoal embedded on the filter. Think there around $14 delivered. The charcoal embedded filters help a little with smoke from leave burning and certain other fumes. Overall, it's just as good as the OEM filter, better if you consider the charcoal. https://a.co/d/j0a4rp9 I was using the Fram filters with Arm & Hammer Bakimg Soda and charcoal with good results. But the price got too high. I see where their now back under $14 so I may go back to these on the next change. I also spray my cabin filter with two different sprays (same as I use on my furnace filters). One is a filter charger spray (spray adhesive that Improves filter efficiency & has a Fresh citrus scent). https://a.co/d/dqv9sqG And tge second is an a/c filter booster which also improves the efficiency of a filter. It turns the filter fibers into having an electrostatic charge. Can't say how long the charge lasts, but I do know that my filters are really dirty when changing. https://a.co/d/8Ayqb7W Either of these will improve the capturing ability of disposable filters. However you would NOT want to use either on a reusable filter. (Although they would benefit most from them). They add an adhesive component to the fibers, which captures and binds dirt and all the other nasties. This would build up on a reusable filter. I don't like reusable filters; they have some serious drawbacks. For one, washable filters are a MERV 4; at best. I think I read where the K&N cabin filters were MERV 3, which is not all that good at filtering. (At least the fine particles). The second is you can never get all the stuff out by washing. Time after time it starts to build up. Read an article some time back, forget who authored it, where they looked at a filter after washing under a microscope. Remember to throughly dry your filter after you wash it. Putting a damp filter back in your car will encourage biological (mold) growth. If it were me, I'd spray it with spray Clorex after washing to kill bacteria and mold spores. Just washing a filter doesn't remove all of these. But letting it sit in the sun for 1/2 hour after washing should sterilize the fibers.

I know that Ford had a problem with 17/18 radios which had problems with speed compensated volume problems. The fix was to have a dealer hook ul his scan tool and download a software fix. Yours may be a related issue. There are several reasons that come to mind for the volume to be silent. 1. Head unit going through a download to update. On mine this happens around once a month, but usually lasts less than 2 ninutes. Posdibly the radio is stuck in a download? 2. Head unit switched to another input port (is switched into USB input, no audio until its present through USB input). Is anything plugged into any USB port? 3. Head unit thinking its getting input from phone. As its used, try removing preexisting connections from previous owner. (Unrelated, remember to remove old door codes). 4. Try hard reset. Pull fuses #10, 28, 32 & 33. Leave out for several minutes. Or, disconnect vehicle battery for a few minutes. (This will reset all vehicle modules, may take a few minutes of driving for them to relearn car).

You're need to be more specific. Specific model of MKX, base, limited, premium. Color of wheel. Heated or non-heated, Speed control or adaptive speed control. Production date. Ford parts giant lists 18 different steering wheels for the 2011. All are either leather, or wood/leather. None show aluminum spokes. (Doesn't meant that one or more may have them, only they dont show up up in the Ford description). If this is a replacement for your existing steering wheel, try looking up your car using your VIN. If this is a modification you're looking to make, may have to try your local Ford parts department.

You named your steering wheel ? Wierd. I named my septic tank ......... 😊

Tell us a little more. Does your car have heated seats or heated and a/c cooled seats? (Different designs and guts).

XBRN Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit,13 Pcs Car Panel Door Window Tools Kit,Auto Clip Fastener Remover Pry Tool Set https://a.co/d/65RiNaO

Its probably either mold or mildew. What happens when the a/c evaporator enclosure drain gets plugged, the condensate can't drain out onto the ground. It starts to backup inside the enclosure. Warmth, water and dark causes mold to grow. Depending on your model year, you just locate to end of the drain tube and either blow it out with air (canned air if you don't have a compressor) or run a soft probe up to clear the jamb. In Gen1 MKXs its under the car, on the drivers side, near the accelerator pedal area. In later vehicles, its in the firewall, on the drivers side. Look for an open tube in either case. Afterwards it's best to squirt a disinfectant onto the enclosure to kill the remaining mold. The best product for this is Kool-It. And you can just run the plastic hose down into the evap enclosure through one of the center dash vents. You squirt in in as foam, after a short period of time, it luquidifies and drains back out. Example: https://a.co/d/fBiEXLa

Use panel tools to pry out. Panels pop out (clips don't break). To mount, center panel over frame and hit over fastener with palm. Pops right bsck in.

This what you're looking for ?

Ever figure this out ?

Ford issued a TSB to have the sensitivity adjusted on these. You pay the cost however. ding, ding ..... duckkkkkkkk! 😳 ..... 😵 lol

I'd try letting the car sit in the sun, heating the surface of the instrument cover get hot, the weight it down so that it lays flat. Let the weight sit for as long as possible on the vinyl (overnight if possible). It was formed with heat, distorted with heat and will need heat to reform to the original shape.

As the third brake light is attached to the rear hatch, I wouldn't think so. If you have a moonroof, sometimes tge drains clog, causing water to back up and leak diwn into the roof structure.

Just guessing, but you mentioned "no longer has voice/ navigation command". If by this you mean that when you press the steering wheel button and speak a command (noun/verb); that voice command is processed through the APIM. Not 100% but I'd guess that all of your problems are related to an APIM failure. And yes, there have been many reports of APIM failures (broken solder joints on a circuit board keep popping up see). Ford has issued several recalls on defective APIMs in the past. In looking at NHTHSA database, I didn't see where your car was on an APIM recall (here's a list of current recalls on your car): 1. June 10, 2022, 22V413000 Unintentional Rollaway Due to Detached Shift Cable 2. August 11, 2020, 20V469000 Front Brake Hoses Could Rupture 3. August 29, 2019, 19V632000 Steering Gear Motor May Detach 4. October 12, 2016, 16V733000 Software Affecting Stability Control/ FMVSS 126,135 5. April 28, 2015, 15V250000 Loss of Power Steering Assist From Salt Corrosion (There's also an investigation on your car for airbags. Concerns the use of the number 2004L desiccant inflator propellant). Here's one (of many) pages talking about Ford's APIM failures and recalls. https://www.vehiclehistory.com/articles/ford-apim-recalls-you-need-to-know-about This video may also help;

Easiest if you use a trim panel removal tool. Panel prys off.

Air idle control, maybe? Leaking hose?

Ok, got dressed and went out and popped the hood. Think I found the spot that you're talking about. There definitely is a vacuum hose attached there. It had a right angle plastic connector that plugs into the air duct, and runs back towards the fire wall. My *guess* is, it is the hose to the evap canister valve located on the firewall. When you disconnected the hose it probably fell down (there's a large parts void under the hose) and is probably just flopping around.

1. Are there any codes? Any excess openings into the air intake, after the Mass Air Flow sensor would cause unmetered air to enter the system and result in excessive fuel trim readings. in looking at your photo, its difficult to tell precisely where this is located. Looking in the service manual at the air intake tube assy, there is a vacuum line that attaches on the left side that's designated as a crankcase vent tube. Then on the right side there's another one that just labeled as a "vacuum tube". My best guess is its the hose for the PVC line which attaches to a valve cover (not to be confused with the PVC which attaces further down the air tube, after the idle air control, and connects to the engine crank area. This hose also splits off and services the Evap Emission Canister Purge Valve). ((Disconnecting the purge valve will definitely throw codes)).

Which app are you running to connect with your Sync Applink? BTW does it connect with Bluetooth ?

Have you changed anything in the exhaust system? A droning sound is common in aftermarket exhaust systems, especially where the cats have been removed or gutted. Any chance your cats have burned open?

Just to be clear, have you switched the APU to USB after phone plugged in? Phone linked to APU through Bluetooth prior to switching over to Bluetooth?