Cosmos36

During the long winter nights, I get very bored...can't mow the lawn, can't wash the vehicles, hate the mind-numbing TV, all my current mags have been read, etc. So, I turn to a variety of other pursuits which may occasionally include changing engine oil. After several years of participating on this forum, I suspect that DYI MKX-Nautilus maintenance is likely not a popular pastime of most members...contrary to many other online forums. In any case, there is one small maintenance task that takes less than a minute to perform and is easy, requires no mechanical skills/knowledge, is immediately informative, hopefully satisfying, and could pay future dividends. At this point, some might be guessing...pull the dipstick and check oil. Good idea, but I'm referring to taking a few seconds to remove the engine oil cap and, with flashlight in hand, peer into the engine for an exam of upper internals, e.g. timing chain, etc. This exam will provide an excellent view for detection of any possible sludge issues. The most favorable view will be one of looking into a container of sparkling diamonds, i.e. gleaming metal components bathed in gold-to-darkish brown motor oil (note: with extended drain intervals, oils in turbo engines may be blackish from carbon blow-by contaminants). When removing the oil cap, inspect for 'mayonnaise', especially prevalent in winter months caused by short drives & less-than-complete engine warm-ups. Freeway driving of adequate duration will melt the usually harmless substance. Good hunting...now you can check the serpentine belt & fluids before closing the hood.

There are no fog lights on any trim model of your MKX, only the strip LEDs that aid in your being observed but serve no purpose in aiding the driver's vision as dedicated fog lamps do.

An examination/replacement of transmission/engine mounts would be logical since the mounts secure engine/transmission components in their proper place & alignment. A broken or loose mount could cause clunking when shifting or accelerating/braking. A non-rotational noise diagnosis would be a search for clunking sources that are static, i.e. not rotating parts such as wheels, bearings, gears, etc. Static (non-rotational) sources of clunking might be suspension components, mounts, mufflers, etc.

The smoothness of a 4 cylinder stop-start engine re-start may depend on whether the engine is always programmed to shut down & restart with one of the 4 cylinders at/near TDC (top dead center) charged with compressed fuel, i.e. ready to fire off instantly when the re-start ignition is initiated. Perhaps the Equinox and Nautilus engines are programmed differently re: stop-start sequencing. Also, the more the engine cylinders, e.g. 4 cylinder vs 6 cylinder, the smoother the re-start of a 6 cylinder due to better inherent engine balance features...6 cyl engines are inherently better balanced.

In addition to the swag of "about 10K miles of tire ware" (sic wear) was the expense of additional fuel running on underinflated tires. And, checking tire pressure (or adjusting air to desired PSI) should be done when tires are cold...exceptions may be appropriate, of course.

Good job, Elijah...the force was with you.

Your Nautilus has a Halloween poltergeist in residence...it will depart until next year upon a reboot of the engine.

The engine light came on at approximately 33,000+ miles on my Select with the 2.7TT. A day earlier when filling fuel at Costco, the pump kicked off at ~ 6 gallons when I expected about twice that much for a fill. After filling with an additional ~ 6 gallons, I proceeded home with no apparent issue. The next morning when starting the engine, the engine light came on (not blinking). From previous experiences, I suspected a connection with the previous day's fill up and had a local auto supply vendor (O'Reilly's) check the OBD for no charge. There was no code indicated and the engine light was out upon restarting with no further issue. This post is just a heads-up to a simple solution to a not-uncommon occurrence. Some auto repair/dealer shops would charge upwards of $80-$100+ just to check for a code thrown for the engine light plus some rip-off parts/labor up-sell to correct the "issue".

For those with the intermittent hatch issue, does the problem occur when using the remote fob, manual dash/hatch command, or either? Opening, closing, or both?

I haven't driven the Nautilus, but the paramount curiosity I've had about any improvement over my 2016 2.7TT would be road noise and interior quietness. Lincoln has stated that suspension improvements (bushings) and added acoustical materials have led to the nautilus being quieter than previous MKX models. From various sources that has apparently been accomplished. The 2020 models will soon be available and we'll see if there are any further refinements. As to fuel mileage, I regularly exceed the EPA averages of 17/24 mpg (500/700 km per tank) with the great 2.7TT engine. If I reduce my usual 70+ mph freeway speeds to ~55-60 mph, the MKX provides up to 31 mpg. Back in the years of several Oldsmobile & Cadillac ownerships, I would brag on getting 18 mpg highway mileage. Today, with all the improvements/amenities/power/safety of modern vehicles, I am immensely pleased with the perceived value of the MKX-Nautilus.

I suspect you're correct re: Costco. I had the recent experience of returning something without a receipt bought months earlier...they just scanned my membership card and the unit's barcode and, voila, $$$ while pleasantly smiling and mentioning that their guarantees are 'unconditional'. Also, I remember when purchasing the MKX that the manager closing the sale said that I was entitled to three free 'somethings' related to services. I recall wiper blades being mentioned. I'll look into it. Thanks.

Recent efforts to install Chinese-made Michelin/Costco Guardian wiper blades to my 2016 MKX have failed after two attempts to attach correct connectors mailed from the Michelin licensee (Pylon Manufacturing Co. in Deerfield, Florida). The first issue manifested itself immediately. The OEM wipers are low profile SIDE-MOUNT blades that hide below the hood cowl & out of the airstream. The Michelin blades are TOP-MOUNT blades that elevate the wiper arm above the cowl and protrude into the airstream, thus also ruining the aesthetics of the OEM design. The first connector mailed ( # P3-5 received after 4 days) from Pylon was a convoluted, awkward 'Rube Goldberg' device that crudely attached the blade to the arm. The second connector mailed (# P4 received after 9 days) was a third duplicate of two other connectors that were included in the purchased 18" & 24" blade packaging...the # P4 was never designed to fit a MKX arm and is worthless. It was sent to me despite a Costco/Michelin/Pylon online fitment guide specifying a different connector number. The Michelin-Pylon marketing of their "EZ Lok Connector System" is a farce. I will be returning the blades to Costco with the hope of receiving a refund.

Repetitive OEM is boring, BLING captures the eye.

ks...Yes, both fobs are required. That is because the 'good' fob's program is reconciled and both 'good' and new fob then receive a compatible new program. Dealers, of course, can program fobs but usually at premium expense. An online (or telecon) search for local locksmiths that have the programming equipment will lead you to local vendors that usually charge less. They will also cut the blade key for the new fob. The topic is somewhat confusing because not all fobs require the same services to duplicate. To my knowledge, the so-called "remote smart" 4-button fobs of push button start vehicles such as MKX-Nautilus not only cost more but demand more complicated programming requiring software that 'lesser' fobs don't.

I once had a similar occurrence involving a Hyundai replacement fob where the programming of both the original & replacement fobs resulted in a completed program installation of the OEM fob but only an incomplete program installation re: the replacement fob. A re-programming of both fobs solved the issues.