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10,000 Oil changes


Midrar

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In Canada, there is 3 service schedules:

 

6 months / 5,000 miles (8,000 km)

 

6 months / 7,500 miles (12,000 km)

 

12 months / 10,000 miles (16,000 km)

 

I'm on the first (6 months / 5,000 miles (8,000 km)) and I always hit the mileage before the car.

 

 

I would not accept the last option

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An answer to your inquiry IMO depends on many factors, including personal preferences based on driving conditions, what a UOA might reveal, OLM feedback, etc. Up front, however, would be what engine is being considered and whether the engine's oil specs & formulation have been tailored to any demands unique to that engine. In my vehicles, an MKX with the 2.7 TGDI engine would receive a different OCI than a 3.7 NA engine in the same vehicle. Very generally speaking, I would resist 10,000 mile OCIs, feeling more comfortable with 5,000-7,000 mile OCIs with both engines with the caveat of more scrutiny (especially fuel dilution) of the 2.7 engine.

 

While not entirely relevant to my specific 2.7, I try to read the results of other 2.7 UOAs in F-150, Edge, and MKX vehicles for guidance, especially noting TBNs (total base number), an excellent indicator of oil longevity. In 2018, the new GF-6 oils should be available that will address and hopefully mitigate many issues pertaining to TGDI engines.

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Look at commercial use, taxi cabs. The do NOT follow a routine time schedule for changing oil, rather they routinely test the oil and change when it reaches a level state of contamination or acidity. This is usually always past the stated interval.

 

I've always felt that 3 mos 3,000 miles (or whatever), was conservative; especially when one considers that you usually add a quart between oil changes (esp at 5,000 intervals.

 

It's usually safe to follow manufacturer recommendations.

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enigma...I don't take exception to anything in your post. However, one thing regarding the several taxi tests needs to be pointed out. Three of the most commonly reported taxi tests are Consumer Reports New York City, AMSOIL Las Vegas, & Mobil 1 Las Vegas, dating to 1996, 2014, & 2012 respectively. Certainly the 1996 test vehicles of 20 years ago all pre-date direct injection technology, the AMSOIL test involved 2.7 V6 178 HP Dodge Charger engine/transmission combos of 2010 vintage, and the Mobil 1 test only mentioned "overhead camshaft" technology. It is doubtful that a single GDI or TGDI engine was installed in any of the test vehicles. While there are several other oil tests mentioned in media reports, e.g. police vehicles, I have yet to find any mention of oil tests in modern/current GDI/TGDI engine usage.

 

It is well documented that modern GDI/TGDI engines experience unique issues with heat, fuel dilution, soot contamination of oil (affecting timing chain wear), LSPI, etc. It is for that reason that engine manufacturers are insisting on new oil specs/test standards leading to the GF-6 oils on the near horizon.

 

My 2.7EcoBoost engine will continue to receive DIY oil changes at conservative (less than 7,500 mile) intervals where UOAs tend to indicate that premium synthetic oils meeting OEM specs are nearing additive depletion levels.

Edited by Cosmos36
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Cosmos, have you done an oil change yet?  I'm planning on doing my own when the time comes, but I'm still at 40% oil life remaining at 5,200 km so I've got a ways to go.

 

And Enigma, I haven't had to add oil to a vehicle between oil changes in many, many years.  Do you have to add to yours?

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Adam...my objective is to change the factory fill (Motorcraft synthetic blend) at 5,000 miles with Quaker State Ultimate Durability synthetic & OEM filter ($5.95 at dealer). My mileage is currently at ~ 4,000 miles and our weather is rapidly approaching ideal for outdoor under-hood tinkering, so likely sometime next month will be 'change day'.

 

BTW, I agree with your note above re: adding oil. I've topped off late into an OCI with perhaps a cup of oil to refresh the additives prior to a long trip, but it was nothing really necessary.

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  • 1 year later...

As Lincoln will probably only honor the 10,000 (Black Label service), I will have to do the 5Ks myself.

Was thinking of Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic and paying the difference with my dealer on the 10K services

Edited by Ninja279
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Because 95% of my driving is city stop and start, I will be changing my oil every 5000 miles.

 

 

As Lincoln will probably only honor the 10,000 (Black Label service), I will have to do the 5Ks myself.

Was thinking of Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic and paying the difference with my dealer on the 10K services

 

 

Until I got the MKX, I had never heard of oil change @ 10,000 miles.

 

Our dealership is putting every body on the 8,000 KM (5,000 miles) service duty.

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As Lincoln will probably only honor the 10,000 (Black Label service), I will have to do the 5Ks myself.

 

It may be a set number of changes rather than actual mileage.  We get 2 free years of maintenance and they didn't ask or mention mileage so far.

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And Enigma, I haven't had to add oil to a vehicle between oil changes in many, many years. Do you have to add to yours?

Sometimes. It's regarded as common to add a quart between oil changes. (Based on a 5k/mile oil change). Oil get consumed as a normal practice on internal combustion engines.

I don't get concerned about adding a quart of oil between oil changes.

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European spec motor oils are formulated differently than most commonly available off-the-shelf North American oils. Regardless of their formulations/chemical technology, As a DIY maintenance owner (fluids, motor oils, filters, belts, etc.), I would get really bored/frustrated if I adhered to a 10K-15K OCI at 18-20 month intervals (driving @ 750 miles per month amongst three vehicles). At 5K OCIs and a miniscule expense of  ~ $38, I take comfort (aka peace of mind) in performing the simple task of maintaining the MKX with clean, premium, synthetic oil with a formulation applicable to the demands of my engine. I think of an oil change as a cheap hobby with benefits to me & my vehicle. And, when I sell my vehicle (@ private sale or pass them on to needy family), I delight in demonstrating the sheen of clean engine internals when viewed down the oil filler.

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I guess I'm "old school" or maybe just old...  I try to change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles or so.

 

My beloved '98 Explorer Eddie Bauer had almost 200,000 miles on it when I traded it in on my 2016 MKX.   The Explorer did not burn or leak oil, and ran like new when I traded it in, maybe or maybe not because of the frequent oil changes.

 

Regardless, it sounds like I'm not advancing as fast as the "longer interval" advanced technology. Lol

 

Timmer

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Kchill...the 3.7 engine has the more common spin-on type of filter (some might refer to it as a "conventional" filter), not the 'on-top-of-the-engine-and easily accessible' canister type of filter. The 2.7 filter type & location is nearly identical to one used on the Ford VT365 diesel engine. Personally, I'm very fond of the ease of access of the 2.7 filter location since I don't have to go under the vehicle to change it as I do with my other Ford vehicles...less mess with the 2.7 canister, too.

 

The Motorcraft FL-2062 filter for the 2.7 can be obtained from the dealer (for less than $6 in my locale) or online (Amazon, Rock Auto, etc.) or from several automotive vendors. While Motorcraft filters (made by Purolator to Ford specs) are very highly regarded, other suitable aftermarket brands (WIX, etc) are available. Beware of some low grade import filters used by various auto shops/Iffy lube vendors.

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Thanks cosmos36 ...then it may not have the plastic plug too. I will do synthetic every 5-6k. Thanks all. One last thing. Is there a good point to jack the truck and put jack stands. I like to drain it dry when I do oil changes.

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Thanks cosmos36 ...then it may not have the plastic plug too. I will do synthetic every 5-6k. Thanks all. One last thing. Is there a good point to jack the truck and put jack stands. I like to drain it dry when I do oil changes.

Get a pair of rhino ramps.

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Kchill...a sloping driveway works for assisting in draining oil from a vehicle's sump. I have vehicles that drain oil to the front and others that drain to the rear, so placement of the vehicle facing up or down the driveway works for me. Don't forget to chock the wheels. BTW, there is enough clearance under the MKX to reach the drain plug without the necessity of elevating the vehicle & you don't have to worry about accessing the oil filter from below.

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