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Were you able of fix your problem.  I am having a similar problem with my 2016 MKX.  It appears the module is mounted in the lift gate and you will have to remove the plastic panels to access it.  I have reset the module serval times with Forscan with no improvements.  I am using for scan on an iPhone and if you just click on the error icon it will let you roll through all of the modules and reset the ones that show an error.  

Were you ever able to sort this out? I need to purchase new remotes, and wondering what I should purchase. I'm having the same locking/unlocking that you are with the key.

The three screws...of hell.  I have big hands and not the best fine motor skills but I am trying to replace the passenger blend door actuator that controls heat and AC.  I can get the glove box off, even take the six 7mm bolts off to unhinge the glove compartment frame.  But with my hands, I'm still unable to get my mini ratchet to reach all three screws.  I know this is a notorious problem but I'm stubborn and would like to see the light at the end of the tunnel.   I can get the trim piece off that lines the center console but I'm trying to understand how to pull these two panels away, enough for me to access the bottom edge of the actuator.  I saw one youtube where he breaks off a tiny amount of plastic to get the job done but didn't film pulling these two panels being removed just enough to get at the little bugger.  happy to elaborate if need be.

I have a 1.46 ampere drain on the battery when the MKX is parked and all modules asleep or at least I think they are.  The approximately 2 year old AGM battery that we installed went dead about a month ago and I went to Sams Club and they were out of the AGM that was spec'd for the car and sold me a regular battery.  I was not comfortable with this but needed the car back.  The first time we left the car idle for 2 or 3 days the battery went to zero volts.  However we had been having trouble with power lift gate and I thought it might have been the problem.  Went through pulling all the engine compartment fuses with my amp meter connected in line with the battery and none of those had any effect on the drain.  I am too big to reach the crazy little fuse panel buried beneath the dash so I opened up all the trim panels on the back lift gate and disconnected everything there with no change in the drain.  Do these cars normally pull 1.4 amperes asleep.  Youtube seems to think maximum of 0.5 ampere + or minus.  Anyone have any advice other than selling it to a dealer? I'm getting by right now by running the car for at least 20 minutes or more a day and don't want to buy an AGM and ruin or damage it until this is fixed.   I am beginning to think that the lift gate problem may be fixed by adjusting the latch mechanism per Ford's Technical Bulletin 18-2042 for Edges and MKX's built before 1/2/2018.  Ford wants $288 just to hook it to their diagnostics with no guarantee and any fix would be $288/hour plus parts.  

I have a 2016 MKX that only to open sometimes and the battery is draining.  I have an amp meter that I put between the hot lead and the battery post that shows a draw of 1.4 amps after the car goes to sleep in about a half hour. I have pulled all the under hood fuses trying to isolate the drain with no success.  The fuses under the dash appear impossible for 77 year old hands to reach.  I am now going to try disconnecting the lift motor to see if it is draining the battery. If you have any results please let me know. I still do not fully understand the forum as I signed up last week and tried posting this with no success. Please post again if you read this.

2013 mkx 3.7l dohc I am changing out the waterpump , timing chain, secondary chains , guides and tensioners. Well when i finally got the camshaft holding tool to sit down all the way on both sides of the head, I started to break one of the bolts loose and the holding tool came flying off of the cams. I don't know how far the camshaft turned. I had it marked but when I got it back to where it was.    (kind of) the little guides that keep the phaser and cam gear in the right spot , are not in the same spot as I marked it before removal. Oh and before I forget. The timing dots are on the bottom when removed. Could I just reinstall them as is? Or do I need to basically start all over making sure the dots are up top at 11 & 1. With the crankshaft  gear dot is at 4?  Tyia

Before spending a lot to diagnose and replace cooling fan assemblies or relay unit, thoroughly rinse away dust and dirt from both the front, through the grill, and inside directly on fans. Amazingly, this completely fixed my 2012 Lincoln MKX fan problem!