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oldfarmer

Key Fob Batteries

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We took delivery mid Dec.

 

Wife has driven to the Dr office once and ridden on several short trips.  She doesn't venture out much during Flu season.

 

Last Friday we headed off to the Dalton Hamfest and her key didn't work.

 

I poo pooed her idea of dead batteries.  After all the the car was Manufactured November 2016.  The fob was only used 10 or so times.

 

Well she was right.  Both the 2025 coin cells were almost dead measuring 0.34V.  OEM batteries were Panasonic so good quality.

 

New batteries and all is well again.  A lot of places don't have 2025 cells.  No eye deer why they didn't use the common 2032 cells.  Hint try Walmart.

 

Checked with the SM and he hasn't had any alerts from Lincoln.

 

One guy in the service area told me that even with a dead battery in the FOB you could put it in one of the clone slots at bottom armrest compartment and drive on if necessary.  Haven't tried that yet.

 

Wonder if anyone else has had dead fob batteries?

 

 

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The fob will still start the car if placed right next to the transponder in the armrest.  That's all described in the OM.  Make sure you read it so you're prepared.

 

The logical explanation is that the fob got stuck in a purse or somewhere else with the button depressed for a long time and that's what drained the batteries.

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That was our guess also.

However this fob replaces a 2013 MKS fob and others for over 25years carried without a similar problem.

More a heads up in case it wasn't a freak case.

We'll know in a few months if the bats are still around 3.3V

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This might be of help should it happen in the future. As for your old unit lasting so long, the new units maintain constant communication with the car, so they will not last nearly as long.

http://dashboardsymbols.com/dead-key-fob-batteries/

 

Here's the instructions for Ford/Lincoln vehicles:

http://dashboardsymbols.com/2012/04/ford-lincoln-dead-fob-help/

Edited by enigma-2

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A time line is in order.

MKX ordered 10-5-16

VIN assigned about 10-14-16

At loading ramp or on train in Canada about 11-17-16

Arrived Memphis about 11-20-16 and got lost almost as long as it took to built and test it.

Arrived at destination dealer about 120 miles from Memphis had a customary 2 day predelivery and  delivered 12-12-16

 

How long the fob was energized before delivery would be a factory detail.

 

1 fob with almost no use totally dead before 2-25-17

1 fob used intermittently has batteries at 3.014V today 3-1-17.  It is tossed in a box when not in use and carried ring on key chain in use.  There is no chance for a button to get jammed on.

 

fob battery at 3.014V may have 1/3 of battery life left depending on fob current requirements.

 

Battery Specs:

CR2025 nominal voltage 3V ampacity 165mAh size 20mmX2.5mm

CR 2032 same with ampacity of 225mAh size 20mmX3.2mm

 

Fresh CR2025 3.32V at normal room temperatures

Fresh CR2032 3.325V

End of life 2.0V Note:  About 2.9V at normal ambient temp death is emanate.

 

The two CR2025 in the 2017 MKX are in parallel.  SWAG that the decision to use CR2025 instead of the readily available CR2032 was NOT and engineering decision.

 

We will see when / if the second fob dies soon.  A spare set of batteries has moved into the center console.

 

The 2013 MKS fob (delivered about 12-14-12) needed the battery contacts cleaned & I lubed with Nyogel about a month before trade in.  It was getting intermittent and cleaning cured the problem.

 

I finally had to replace the CR2032 in the fob for my 2001 Dodge 2500 diesel (delivered 2-16-2000) about 6 to 12 months ago.  Around 16 years life.

 

Definitely hope the MKX fob batteries last more than 6 months.

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My 2016 MKX was delivered in December 2016 and has 3k miles on it.  Today I get the dash reading that key battery is low, replace soon.  Batteries last 4 months, 3,000 miles???  Is this something to bring to the dealer to trouble-shoot or just an anomaly?

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My 2016 MKX was delivered in December 2016 and has 3k miles on it.  Today I get the dash reading that key battery is low, replace soon.  Batteries last 4 months, 3,000 miles???  Is this something to bring to the dealer to trouble-shoot or just an anomaly?

 

 

A bit short...  Got mine in Feb 2016 (15,000 miles ago with a lot of remote starts) and it still "ticking".

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I think there are some bad batteries and/or fobs out there.   Also if the fob button gets stuck in a pocket or purse or somewhere else that will wear out the battery quickly.

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We have had fobs since they first appeared and never had one kill a battery for many years.

These new fobs are supposedly in constant trying to talk to the car so will not last as long.

The 2013 MKS went back to the dealer with original batteries in the fobs.

 

While there is a chance my wife's fob got the button mashed for a long period in her fanny pack I see it as REMOTE!

 

That's why I started the thread as a question if anyone had the same problem.

 

So now there is at least one more.

 

Original batteries are Panasonic.  Doubt a bad lot of batteries.

 

Fobs have SMD boards and they could have gotten a bad lot of caps or populated some boards with the wrong caps.

 

They could have not cleaned the flux off the boards.  Normally the few uA loss from flux leakage is of no consequence.  However with backup coin batteries it will kill them.

 

I paid just under $5 for a pair of bats at W/M when we were out of town.  Got home and paid $5 for 50 of them on eBay.  Not name brand, but I have used LOTS of them in scopes, laser grips on and on with no problem.  FYI

 

This is just something to be aware of so you have a spare pair of bats in the car.  Like a spare tire.

 

LinkedMe:  Is it just one fob or both fobs?  If you have a DVM, when you swap them measure the voltage and post it.

 

Quite sure the dealer will fix it for free, but is an hour or so of your time for a service trip worth less that the bats? ;)

Edited by oldfarmer

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We have had fobs since they first appeared and never had one kill a battery for many years.

These new fobs are supposedly in constant trying to talk to the car so will not last as long.

The 2013 MKS went back to the dealer with original batteries in the fobs.

 

While there is a chance my wife's fob got the button mashed for a long period in her fanny pack I see it as REMOTE!

 

That's why I started the thread as a question if anyone had the same problem.

 

So now there is at least one more.

 

Original batteries are Panasonic.  Doubt a bad lot of batteries.

 

Fobs have SMD boards and they could have gotten a bad lot of caps or populated some boards with the wrong caps.

 

They could have not cleaned the flux off the boards.  Normally the few uA loss from flux leakage is of no consequence.  However with backup coin batteries it will kill them.

 

I paid just under $5 for a pair of bats at W/M when we were out of town.  Got home and paid $5 for 50 of them on eBay.  Not name brand, but I have used LOTS of them in scopes, laser grips on and on with no problem.  FYI

 

This is just something to be aware of so you have a spare pair of bats in the car.  Like a spare tire.

 

LinkedMe:  Is it just one fob or both fobs?  If you have a DVM, when you swap them measure the voltage and post it.

 

Quite sure the dealer will fix it for free, but is an hour or so of your time for a service trip worth less that the bats? ;)

 

It appears to just be mine and I drive it the most.  The dealer checked the batteries and replaced them for free.  The Service Tech said these units are in constant communication so don't leave them in the car, which I don't.  He also said there can be a slight "burn spot" on the battery where they didn't have a positive contact point and mine showed two slight points like that.  He did say on average he sees the batteries lasting only about 1 year.  Past vehicles I had 3-5 years and never change the batteries...of course they weren't as sophisticated as this and weren't in constant communication either.  It was merely "Lock or Unlock".

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Both the wifes bats had a clear grease on them at the gold contact points.

No idea what they used.

I use Nyogel now.  Used to use silicon grease.

The one of ours that failed had rarely been around the car.

We'll see how many others weigh in on the subject.

Nice to get a service report - THANKS

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It appears to just be mine and I drive it the most.  The dealer checked the batteries and replaced them for free.  The Service Tech said these units are in constant communication so don't leave them in the car, which I don't.  He also said there can be a slight "burn spot" on the battery where they didn't have a positive contact point and mine showed two slight points like that.  He did say on average he sees the batteries lasting only about 1 year.  Past vehicles I had 3-5 years and never change the batteries...of course they weren't as sophisticated as this and weren't in constant communication either.  It was merely "Lock or Unlock".

 

**UPDATE**  Just went in for service and explained I'm on my 3rd set of batteries since taking delivery in November (6,700 Miles).  Somethings wrong.  The Tech agreed and reprogrammed the car and two Fobs as well as replaced batteries in both.  Hopefully no more issues????

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Damn. Sounds link the FOBS and car cant stop talking. Reminds me of my mother in law.

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Damn. Sounds link the FOBS and car cant stop talking. Reminds me of my mother in law.

Dude, now that is funny!

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So far just the one.

The bats in my fob test low but are still working.

We keep a spare set of bats in the car now.

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Just replaced the wife's fob bats again

My fob is still doing great on original bats

She usually has hers in a fanny pack.  Guessing the a button gets pushed in there.

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