JJMaine

Awesome thank you. I'll keep my $100 then...

Do I need an alignment after removing the steering knuckles to replace wheel bearings? I know that most are going to say yes but what needs aligning? On my car there doesn’t seem to be any way to adjust the camber where the knuckle bolts to the strut. It just bolts to the strut. I didn’t disturb the positions of the tie rod ends and the car doesn’t pull one way or the other?

I am looking for a good set of pads and rotors (for the least amount of money). The pads that are on there now don’t cover the edge of the rotor so you get that crusty build up that makes it hard to take the caliper off. In some wheel bearing vids I have watched they have good pads that cover the rotors all the way to the edge. Can anyone recommend a good pair that rock auto may have. Also is it worth getting rotors that are completely coated? Thanks! Dammit, I meant to but forgot to measure my front rotor when I had it off. Not sure which size I need for an ‘08 MKX AWD?

Thanks!

I am doing one wheel at a time. Will disconnecting that take most of the tension off? One more question if I can. Can I jack the front up using the frame rails (about a foot in from the pinch welds)? I think it is the frame at least…. I can use the front right pinch weld but the left side is already mashed by the previous owners or more likely the shops/dealerships they brought it to. Are there any other good places to lift the front safely? Even though the pinch weld is mashed can I still use that location with a floor jack? Thanks for your reply!!!

I took the right knuckle off my MKX AWD the other day to change the wheel bearing but I noticed that when I took the 2 bolts out of the top of the knuckle/strut, the lower control arm and ball joint was under such tension that it shot the whole knuckle upwards with the axle still wedged in it and it was a pain to remove. I finally got it off, pressed in a new bearing and spindle and managed to get it back together by holding the control arm down with all my weight on a 5ft pry bar. When I watched the few videos of people taking the knuckles off their MKX's, they remove the two strut bolts and the knuckle just tilts forward and rests on the ball joint. Wondering why mine was such a bear to deal with and was under so much tension? I asked a buddy and he said you need to have both sides jacked up so there isn't any tension on the control arms but I thought it was independant suspension? Obviously I have no idea but does that sound right? My car has 130,000 miles on it so I am going to replace the left front wheel bearing as well before I get a front end alignment and am hoping to avoid the same major struggle. Thanks for your help!