Graftman

Hi all Hoping a ford parts guy sees this. I have a 2016 Lincoln MKX 2.7 Reserve. I need the tailgate strut/motor (left side) part number FA1Z-14B351-A. The Edge sport has part number FT4Z-14B351-A. They look identical, but the ford edge one is 40 bucks cheaper. Not the end of the world at all but just wanting to know if the reality is they are identical parts with a more expensive part number assigned to the lincoln, and if this is the case across other parts also. Thanks!

Thanks so much for reply. I appreciate your response a ton! This is extremely helpful. ?

Hey all Customer Satisfaction Program 21B09 for the 3G to 4G modem upgrade applies only to U.S. customers by my understanding.Is there a Canadian equivalent? I did get the message on my Lincoln Way app that my modem would have to be replaced for continued use and to contact the dealership for more information. Id like to attend this appointment knowing the facts as they are applied in Canada before I get handed a crazy quote that may or may not be accurate. I have a 2016 MKX Reserve 2.7t with a build year 04/13/2016 I also looked up the specific parts and it seems transmission number is required to get the right one of 3 options of modem for the 2016 mkx. The install instructions are pretty well layed out on the American notice (I found that in a thread here I think) so depending on labour cost here I might consider that if I had the exact right part # nailed down. Jay

Slip in a piece of plastic behind the hole (glue behind the hole to keep it in place) and fill and sand. Cut two strips of 3M Scotchprint car wrap vinyl film 1080 series matte black And do the same on both sides the full length of the strip. Will look like its supposed to be like that. *lots of YouTube vids on car wrap techniques...basically cut strips slightly larger and stretch into place. Then slice along the contours under both lips. Will look perfect and its cheap so you can feel ok about redoing anytime. Plus its super tough stuff. Buy enough to do a few should you ever need to.

Haha. No although I'm guilty of adding adding bottled spring water occasionally...better than the rusty slew from my well. I was referring to the "Gold" coolant. Guess I should have referenced the label color. Lets not argue about the color of the actually coolant (I say clear) or it could lead to a discussion about the color of Cosmos pee before or after said drinks at the Cantina.

My top 3 advice... 1. Change PTU gear oil every 30k (I will do mine yearly now) 2. Use Synthetic engine oil and change your oil and filter faithfully! 3. Change Coolant as needed. People always forget its a lubricant also and breaks down just like oil. * If I didnt know when the above were done, Id just go ahead and do all 3 ASAP.

I'm for sure interested to hear the diagnosis once you find it.

Don't worry, two Lincolns in the driveway sends a message to the neighbors....just not sure what it is...... ? We have a neighbor with 3 VWs in the drive. Thats how everyone on the street references them.....the people with all the VWs I myself may be sending conflicting messages. Beautiful MKX, sporty Lexus, and a big old ugly jacked Jeep!

I have orange which I heard is discontinued. Is the new yellow alot better? I know my friend swears by older ford clear one that was out for awhile. Says it was the best coolant ever. If thats true why would they discontinue the clear one?

I agree, get the old multi meter out and check the battery *right after it wont start after running. . Other things....damaged alternator (or bad connection from alt to battery), bad fuse, ecm damage, or sensor. If you can't test the battery and it wont start, try boosting it. If that works your battery just isnt charging while driving. Ive also seen "dead" batteries "recover" enough to start after a "resting" period. Its got something to do with the plates, sulfuric acid and ions dispersing or something.... Chemistry was not my thing I suspect alternator (or regulator)or bad connections from it Try clearing your all your codes and start over also. Ive heard of problems when modules get full.

While anecdotal, I'd have to concur with this observation. It seems that these companies are using science from outside of its intended scope to sell warranty. They could sell the same warranty without the "mystery box" but humans like to put trust in things they can see and touch. Plus it has a light that flashes, so this clearly means its working and doing its job. In terms of profit (which is the purpose) the device is irrelevant.

*effective circuit

So I've subsequently done a bit of reading on these things. Heres what I gather. 1. Lots of evidence for use on stationary, continuous objects (steel containers etc) 2. Evidence for use on marine applications. The companies marketing these devices aimed at passenger land vehicles, use the device as means to actually sell extended warranty against rust (something which is already highly mitigated) Whether the device works or not is somewhat irrelevant to the purpose its being used for. Passenger vehicles just have too much other material in the way (fibreglass, plastic, rubber, paint, sealants, gaskets, weatherstripping etc) to get any sort of congruent circuit. But again, its the recipe for the sale that matters; think of the metal box as a symbol of the warranty. Remember who is hedging their bets, and the house always wins. ;)

Sorry to hear this happened to you but glad you had warranty left. Ive been through the Ford PTU saga myself. There are some seals they will replace also when they install the new unit. Basically these PTUs get cooked surrounded by the Catalytic converter, engine and transmission because these model year PTUs have no cooling mechanism and very little fluid (the low fluid volume, in my opinion, is the root of the issue). You may as well do the rear diff. FordTechMakuloco does a while series on youtube about these PTUs. FordFlex.net forum has extensive info on these PTUs but I found Makuloco the easiest to understand and fact based vs. Conjecture. Just curious how many kms/miles on your MKX? Ford has included a service interval of 30000mi for PTU fluid change for "extreme duty" which mostly involves service vehicles (see heat issue - cooking the ptu fluid) I change my PTU oil every spring now myself now that I have a PTU with a drain plug. (Oh yeah I forgot to mention its in recent years a drain plug was added.) Welcome to the PTU club (albeit not a very exclusive one) ;)

Haha! I actually have it figured. Its an electronic anti-corrosion device installed at the dealership from new. Not something I would personally pay for. Science seems to be a little lacking there for land vehicles. Unless your vehicle is submerged in water I'm thinking it doesn't do much (like for ships) ;)