enigma-2

Because these are complicated, interconnected systems. It's not something a layman would understand. However, if the reader understands what the manual refers to, then it may help for them to understand where to start. Anyway, DTC stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code(s). SJB stands for Smart Junction Box. You know it as the fuse panel (although its much, much more than that.) BJB stands for Battery Junction Box, a fused power distribution center located in the engine compartment. DSM stands for drivers seat module. This module handles several different, somewhat interconnected systems. For example, when you unlock the door, this module moves the drivers seat back and resets the mirrors, etc. It does this depending one which FOB your unlocking the door with. There are other functions it controls as well.

Forscan can turn the double honk off.

As no one else answered, I'll take a stab at what I know. 1. ACU not working when cold. Sounds like a defective unit (radio). I'd buy a replacement off Ebay and drop it in. Couple hundred. 2. Rear camera is probably the cause, but the audio control unit, the radio, has a video board in it to display the image from the camera. If replacing the radio fixes it, good. If not, new camera. 3. Replace the radio. 4. A/C blows cold on one enemy side means one of the actuators is defective. (Very common.) There are fixes by recycling the actuators but once they start to go bad, best to just replace. 5. Oil pressure light. Could just be a sensor problem. Are you running to oil described in your manual? Check the quality? Checked to make certain that there's no coolant in the oil? (Turns the oil a milky color. You didn't say which engine your car has. 4-cyl eco are known to have bad heads between cyl 2 &3 which can blow the gasket and dump coolant into the oil, causing low oil pressure. It's critical to get this fixed asap if so. Destroys the engine if left unchecked.) 6. Replacing the fan. Possibly the fan controller is bad. If you replace fan or controller, buy Motorcraft. Non-Motorcraft are known to be problematic. If you used aftermarket, could be a bad fan. (Been reported widely by others.) If you used Motorcraft, I'd suspect the control unit (located on fan scroud). Most people replace the fan assembly. (Fans, controller & metal shroud.) What I did. Only use Motorcraft. None of the others have a good record.

This would make a great steering wheel

Hydraulic problem, verify transmission fluid levels. (When was xmission levels last changed)? Electric problem, test battery CCA rating (not voltage). Weak battery can cause problems with modules.

Some reported gasket leaking where connector attaches to housing. Others found crack in plastic where assembly front is glued to back. I'd try running a bead of Seal All (or equivalent) around the assembly where face attaches to back. https://a.co/d/0l6HRSD

You only need a locksmith and software if you only have one key. If you have both registered keys available, the process described in the video will program a third key.

I need to change mine, been 6 months. Got a spare sitting on the shelf in the garage, quietly calling me ... ! I use a filter from "Fun-Driving". I like these because they use bamboo charcoal embedded on the filter. Think there around $14 delivered. The charcoal embedded filters help a little with smoke from leave burning and certain other fumes. Overall, it's just as good as the OEM filter, better if you consider the charcoal. https://a.co/d/j0a4rp9 I was using the Fram filters with Arm & Hammer Bakimg Soda and charcoal with good results. But the price got too high. I see where their now back under $14 so I may go back to these on the next change. I also spray my cabin filter with two different sprays (same as I use on my furnace filters). One is a filter charger spray (spray adhesive that Improves filter efficiency & has a Fresh citrus scent). https://a.co/d/dqv9sqG And tge second is an a/c filter booster which also improves the efficiency of a filter. It turns the filter fibers into having an electrostatic charge. Can't say how long the charge lasts, but I do know that my filters are really dirty when changing. https://a.co/d/8Ayqb7W Either of these will improve the capturing ability of disposable filters. However you would NOT want to use either on a reusable filter. (Although they would benefit most from them). They add an adhesive component to the fibers, which captures and binds dirt and all the other nasties. This would build up on a reusable filter. I don't like reusable filters; they have some serious drawbacks. For one, washable filters are a MERV 4; at best. I think I read where the K&N cabin filters were MERV 3, which is not all that good at filtering. (At least the fine particles). The second is you can never get all the stuff out by washing. Time after time it starts to build up. Read an article some time back, forget who authored it, where they looked at a filter after washing under a microscope. Remember to throughly dry your filter after you wash it. Putting a damp filter back in your car will encourage biological (mold) growth. If it were me, I'd spray it with spray Clorex after washing to kill bacteria and mold spores. Just washing a filter doesn't remove all of these. But letting it sit in the sun for 1/2 hour after washing should sterilize the fibers.

I know that Ford had a problem with 17/18 radios which had problems with speed compensated volume problems. The fix was to have a dealer hook ul his scan tool and download a software fix. Yours may be a related issue. There are several reasons that come to mind for the volume to be silent. 1. Head unit going through a download to update. On mine this happens around once a month, but usually lasts less than 2 ninutes. Posdibly the radio is stuck in a download? 2. Head unit switched to another input port (is switched into USB input, no audio until its present through USB input). Is anything plugged into any USB port? 3. Head unit thinking its getting input from phone. As its used, try removing preexisting connections from previous owner. (Unrelated, remember to remove old door codes). 4. Try hard reset. Pull fuses #10, 28, 32 & 33. Leave out for several minutes. Or, disconnect vehicle battery for a few minutes. (This will reset all vehicle modules, may take a few minutes of driving for them to relearn car).

You're need to be more specific. Specific model of MKX, base, limited, premium. Color of wheel. Heated or non-heated, Speed control or adaptive speed control. Production date. Ford parts giant lists 18 different steering wheels for the 2011. All are either leather, or wood/leather. None show aluminum spokes. (Doesn't meant that one or more may have them, only they dont show up up in the Ford description). If this is a replacement for your existing steering wheel, try looking up your car using your VIN. If this is a modification you're looking to make, may have to try your local Ford parts department.

You named your steering wheel ? Wierd. I named my septic tank ......... ?

Tell us a little more. Does your car have heated seats or heated and a/c cooled seats? (Different designs and guts).

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Its probably either mold or mildew. What happens when the a/c evaporator enclosure drain gets plugged, the condensate can't drain out onto the ground. It starts to backup inside the enclosure. Warmth, water and dark causes mold to grow. Depending on your model year, you just locate to end of the drain tube and either blow it out with air (canned air if you don't have a compressor) or run a soft probe up to clear the jamb. In Gen1 MKXs its under the car, on the drivers side, near the accelerator pedal area. In later vehicles, its in the firewall, on the drivers side. Look for an open tube in either case. Afterwards it's best to squirt a disinfectant onto the enclosure to kill the remaining mold. The best product for this is Kool-It. And you can just run the plastic hose down into the evap enclosure through one of the center dash vents. You squirt in in as foam, after a short period of time, it luquidifies and drains back out. Example: https://a.co/d/fBiEXLa