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Before you waste your money, see if this car has this connector and just unplug it. (Ten seconds.) Think it checks the battery for charge. If the battery is low, it disables the start/stop. Unplugging it tells the computer it can't verify battery voltage.

There's a couple of reasons that the AWD can disable. One is overheating. Should reset after cooling down. Second is either running with the spare or having different size tires front and rear. If neither of these conditions are present, the most likely cause is a component failure. Starting point would be running the codes.

i have the same issue. i pulled all the panels off and its coming from up high. investigating clogged moonroof drains.

The flap opens when the funnel or the gas pump nozzle is inserted. It’s spring g loaded. There is no locking mechanism because it isn’t necessary. You can’t siphon gas nor can anyone put anything in without the special funnel.

All wheel drive disabled

I have a 2011 Lincoln MKX and the capless fuel filler flap is stuck closed. The vehicle is unlocked and the included small fuel funnel goes in the filler and the flap will release. When the vehicle is unlocked, does the flap release open? Or does the flap only open when you insert the fuel nozzle into the filler? Is there a fuse for this capless system or is it strictly mechanical? Is the fuel door suppose to lock? Thanks, g.

I a 2011 lincoln mkx all wheel drive v6 3.7 L . I was driving down the road and the car 3r went into limp mode . Took everything i had not to wreck my car bc i lost all control when it happened but the low oil sensor light came on after words. Well bo one new how to fix it so i started doing my research. And it said change the oil and sensor well i noticed i had a oil leak while i was changing everything out and when i was putting my sensor back in it broke it was a clean break but bad thing is that i dont no how to fix on lil to nothing finances.... my car is everything... even my home not by choice. But please anyone got ideas?

The control module for the climate seats is under the driver's seat, near the front labeled "DSM" Ford TSB SSM 47814 deals with this issue. Some 2016-2019 Explorer, 2016-2018 MKX, 2019 Edge/Nautilus, 2017-2019 Fusion/MKZ, and 2018-2019 F-150/Mustang/Expedition/Navigator vehicles equipped with climate controlled seats may exhibit a buzzing noise from the front seats, front seats too warm, and/or inoperative climate controlled front seats. DTCs B14BA:13, B1154:4B, and/or B14B9:13 may also be present. This may be due to loose terminal pin fit on the driver seat module (DSM) connector C341D (16 pin). If a loose terminal pin fit condition is found during normal diagnostics per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 501-10, a new service pigtail connector (part number 3U2Z-14S411-BRAB) is available. Refer to Wiring Diagram, Cell 119 to make sure C341D is a 16 pin connector and not a 20 pin connector. Refer to Wiring Diagram, Cell 5 for the recommended splicing procedures. My 2016 Lincoln MKX had the problem described, the driver's seat would not cool, or cooling intermittently. I replaced the pigtail and connector as described in the TSB and it corrected the issue. Unless you have some soldering skills, I would not recommend doing this repair yourself. MC-10156883-9999.pdf

Dallas150, no clue if you're still on this forum 3+ years later. The part number you provided shows as having two USB ports, but my original one for my 2016 MKX Reserve only has 1. Does this sound right for your switch? Also, any clue if the new module does anything for turn by turn directions coming up on the dashboard screen from CarPlay or Android Auto?

Has anyone had success with this on the Nautilus? https://www.amazon.com/Eliminator-Compatible-Navigator-2020-2022-Automatic/dp/B0BLK299T3?ref_=ast_sto_dp

I want to change on my mkx 2011 the instrumental panel where is located ther radio and A/C by a display tesla style, somebody do that before or can guide me

2016 MKX Reserve. Has anyone else dealt with a blown factory amp? I’ve done my digging online and found that it seems to be a common issue, but it is next to impossible to get the vehicle into the local ford dealer to verify that it is the issue. In my younger days it I always had aftermarket stereos with amps and subs, I’ve blown a couple of amps, and it sounded like the same thing with the MKX. Has anyone replaced the factory amp with an aftermarket? Is it possible, or should I just order a factory one and hope it doesn’t happen again?

Hello, I have a 2016 Lincoln MKX. Let me preface by saying I am in the far North of Canada, and it is extremely difficult to even get the local ford dealer to call you back to book an appointment. When the vehicle is started, a limited park brake function message pops up, and both dash lights are on for the brake system. Releasing to electronic park brake clears the message and dash lights, but it eventually comes back on after driving for a while. Other than that, the electronic park brake appears to be functioning properly. Has anyone else had the same issue, if so, what was the cause?

Does anyone know if a JR3T14G229AK from a Mustang will work in a 2016 MKX? I saw a post where a F150 TCU was used with little difficulty. Would the outcome be the same with a Mustang TCU? They both start with a J.

Usually just pull off the cover.

Hi all, I have a 2009 MKX with the Vista Moonroof. I've had the car since 2016 and the moonroof has worked fine, until this year. I live in a cold climate and the roof doesn't get used in the winter. When I tied to use it, I'm finding that the Tilt button is now opening the roof all the way, and the full Open button won't open it, but will close it. Tilt only opens and Open only closes. I replaced the switches, but no change. Has anyone else seen this behaviour? Any ideas as to what's going on? Thank you!

How do you access the fuse panel to the bottom left of the steering column? Amplifier not working and trying to access the fuse for it

It means she left with the only working key and it’s letting you know not to drive off without a working key, Try it with her fob only. Then check your fob batteries.

Do you know which as built entry to change and the value needed for the 2020 nautilus's double horn honk?

2016 MKX with stuck/clicking/jerking mirror(s). Been basically living with it. But now, I also have an intermittent parasitic battery drain. Replaced 4 yr old battery...same thing with new battery...sometime 24-48 hours, battery is dead. Simultaneously with parasitic battery drain, been starting to get a message on the dash at start up "remote battery low, replace soon" (something like that). Now, this has degraded to remote not working at all unless I rest it in it birthing spot to start the car (inside bottom of console). Could these all be related?

I have a 2015 Lincoln MKX that has a intermittent thumping sound coming from the front of the vehicle while going slow ( under 10 mph ) over gravel or dirt roads. It is not the tires or the brakes. We are getting ready to sell the vehicle and get a new 2024 Ford Ranger and would like to fix it if possible.

Thank you

About 6 months ago my driver's seat heat / AC stopped working. Then a few months after that the rear hatch intermittently stopped working and at the same time that was acting up the side collision detectors would go off at random times. Then I woke up one morning to a completely dead battery. Replaced the battery and the car worked fine for a few days except the drivers seat climate still didn't work. Then the rear hatch inside sensor thing started up intermittently again. Woke up again this morning to a completely dead battery. Was again able to jumpstart it and again the rear hatch worked once but then stopped working again. I have no idea if they are all related but I have gone down many rabbit holes to no avail. I have tried disconnecting the battery and touching the positive and negative together to discharge everything to try and reset modules. Does anybody have any idea what might be going on? I have an appt next week to get it checked out since it seems out of my know how but thought I would check here also.

Because these are complicated, interconnected systems. It's not something a layman would understand. However, if the reader understands what the manual refers to, then it may help for them to understand where to start. Anyway, DTC stands for Diagnostic Trouble Code(s). SJB stands for Smart Junction Box. You know it as the fuse panel (although its much, much more than that.) BJB stands for Battery Junction Box, a fused power distribution center located in the engine compartment. DSM stands for drivers seat module. This module handles several different, somewhat interconnected systems. For example, when you unlock the door, this module moves the drivers seat back and resets the mirrors, etc. It does this depending one which FOB your unlocking the door with. There are other functions it controls as well.

Can someone tell me what the black chunky looking thing is under my interior rear view mirror? It came loose and hangs down in center of windshield. appears to been glued on. see pic of similar I found on ebay Thanks