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Little late on the response to this question, but if you haven't sorted it out already, it is/was probably the wiring harnesses that lead to each EPB motor. One on each side, and are a little over a foot long if memory serves. I also have a 2016 and had to do this on mine as I had one side fail and the other was on its way. Cause is corrosion in the wiring harness. Seems to seep down the wires and eventually they will break. Also had this happen to the front camera harness.

I did this on my 2008 MKX and it worked!! Thanks so much for the info!

Unplugging the actuator and plugging it back in while the car was running fixed the issue on my 2013 Lincoln MKX. Thanks for the tip!

Hey John I replaced my spindle and the noise is completely gone. It could have been a bad wheel bearing or a bent spindle. I’ll never know but it’s the best $70 i’ve ever spent.

Hi, I'm Doug, new to the group. The reason I joined, I'm having trouble with rear windows on this car. Ive ohmed #48 fuse, says good. They work occasionally, but its brief. Even if that #48 ohms good, could that circuit brkr/fuse still be bad? Anybody else had any trouble?

Can the seat heaters come on when you use the key fab to auto start on a 2017 MKX Reserve

Not sure if you found the problem, I don’t have much insight to your problem but I will suggest checking out the Ford edge forums. They are frequented by more users and the vehicles are very much the same and use many of the same parts and are afflicted by many of the same problems. I also have a 2016 MKX and generally find more info there than on this one. Though I do check in every now and then. PS. The under dash fuse box is a PIA even for a 40yo lol. Not sure what genius came up with that location.

Your "noise/vibration" is exactly what I was getting from my 2011 MKX. When I test drove it, it had engine misses and I thought, I'll replace the plugs: end of story. It was not! I had it in two different garages and both times, charged roughly $150 to learn nothing. This has been almost 2 years with nothing new, except this rotation/vibration. The other day, I noticed that on making left hand turns, under power.... there was no vibration. I checked the transmission fluid level, discovered that fluid was down a full quart. Topped it up. Vibration 95-97% gone. I expect it will get better as I drive it more.

I can’t believe that I just discovered this today and have no idea where the lens fell off. It is clear that the sealant is dry rotted. Lights still work but having trouble finding just the plastic lens cover. 2017 Lincoln MKX

Hello everyone. Hope everyone here is having a great day and enjoying their MKX. I’ve got an issue with my lincoln MKX and I’m hoping to get some thoughts on this from you guys. I have a 2018 Lincoln MKX 3.7 AWD 17K miles on it. I bought it wrecked and fixed it up. Now when i drive it I can hear and feel a vibration as i accelerate. It sounds exactly like a very bad tire. I put the car on 4 jack stands and the feel is still there but barely noticeable because the wheels are in the air. I was thinking it could be a bad wheel bearing at first but the wheel bearing sounds more like a constant noise as if you’ve got the window cracked. Mine has the sound and feel of a rotation. Something’s rotation is being felt through my pedal, wheel and seat. I’ve also tried putting it in neutral and shifting gears manually but that didn’t change a thing. So now i’m ruling out transmission as the fluid is pink and smells fine and its shifting normal with no issues. It can’t be the driveshaft because when i was under the car i tried to wiggle and spin it around, but it was pretty solid and only had the normal amount of play. Also, if the drive shaft was bad the whole car would shake like crazy so that was rules out. I’m leaning more towards a bad ptu unit but it’s got no leaks when inspected. I took the upper screw and it had metal shavings on the magnet. I cleaned it up and drained it and got about 12oz out of it and topped it till the upper bolt started leaking so it should be full. I drove it and still got the same problem. I don’t wanna replace the ptu unit unless it is the cause of this vibration and humming. It’s not a very easy process to replace the ptu unit nor it is cheap. What are your thoughts on this? Has anyway had a similar issue? Any advice of where I should start?

We have a 2008 MKX we want to do a rear seat swap on. The current seat has a 60/40 split in the bottom of the seat and where the crack is in the seat our center carseat slips into and gets crooked and loose. We have 3 car seats. I was looking at the newer 2016-2018 seats and they have a solid bottom seat with no seat cracks. Had anybody done a seat swap? Does anybody by chance know what years will be a direct bolt into the 2008? Thank you

Water coming in under carpet in front driver and passenger floor when AC is running. Also, Water coming into spare tire well and sometimes rear floor when it rains hard.

One of two key fobs for 2011 MKX has gotten very sensitive and sends unlock signal whenever anything touches the fob surface. Can't have it in a pocket, for example. Any ideas?

Hello, I have a 2008 Lincoln MKX and am wondering if seats from first or second generation MKX's will direct bolt in? I can find lots of 2016-2018 seats available, but can't find info if they will direct bolt in or not.

I have a 2016 MKX, and I bought it new in 2021. It's a Canadian model, I believe, and imported to Amsterdam. I had it registered in Germany, and have it at my home in Berlin. These Forums interest me greatly, as I have no Lincoln dealer I could go to. I have a couple of problems with it already, but wanted first to try and sift through the posts for similar problems before I star a new topic.

I have a similar issue but in my case I lost the lens completely. I believe the culprit was the car wash. I'm attempting to remanufacture the lens using red plexiglass and glue. I won't know the results until I return to Florida (snowbird) in November. You would think they'd sell just a stick-on replacement lens. We can't be the only players in this game. A full brake light replacement is expensive. gmurf22

Were you able of fix your problem. I am having a similar problem with my 2016 MKX. It appears the module is mounted in the lift gate and you will have to remove the plastic panels to access it. I have reset the module serval times with Forscan with no improvements. I am using for scan on an iPhone and if you just click on the error icon it will let you roll through all of the modules and reset the ones that show an error.

Were you ever able to sort this out? I need to purchase new remotes, and wondering what I should purchase. I'm having the same locking/unlocking that you are with the key.

The three screws...of hell. I have big hands and not the best fine motor skills but I am trying to replace the passenger blend door actuator that controls heat and AC. I can get the glove box off, even take the six 7mm bolts off to unhinge the glove compartment frame. But with my hands, I'm still unable to get my mini ratchet to reach all three screws. I know this is a notorious problem but I'm stubborn and would like to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I can get the trim piece off that lines the center console but I'm trying to understand how to pull these two panels away, enough for me to access the bottom edge of the actuator. I saw one youtube where he breaks off a tiny amount of plastic to get the job done but didn't film pulling these two panels being removed just enough to get at the little bugger. happy to elaborate if need be.

I have a 1.46 ampere drain on the battery when the MKX is parked and all modules asleep or at least I think they are. The approximately 2 year old AGM battery that we installed went dead about a month ago and I went to Sams Club and they were out of the AGM that was spec'd for the car and sold me a regular battery. I was not comfortable with this but needed the car back. The first time we left the car idle for 2 or 3 days the battery went to zero volts. However we had been having trouble with power lift gate and I thought it might have been the problem. Went through pulling all the engine compartment fuses with my amp meter connected in line with the battery and none of those had any effect on the drain. I am too big to reach the crazy little fuse panel buried beneath the dash so I opened up all the trim panels on the back lift gate and disconnected everything there with no change in the drain. Do these cars normally pull 1.4 amperes asleep. Youtube seems to think maximum of 0.5 ampere + or minus. Anyone have any advice other than selling it to a dealer? I'm getting by right now by running the car for at least 20 minutes or more a day and don't want to buy an AGM and ruin or damage it until this is fixed. I am beginning to think that the lift gate problem may be fixed by adjusting the latch mechanism per Ford's Technical Bulletin 18-2042 for Edges and MKX's built before 1/2/2018. Ford wants $288 just to hook it to their diagnostics with no guarantee and any fix would be $288/hour plus parts.

I have a 2016 MKX that only to open sometimes and the battery is draining. I have an amp meter that I put between the hot lead and the battery post that shows a draw of 1.4 amps after the car goes to sleep in about a half hour. I have pulled all the under hood fuses trying to isolate the drain with no success. The fuses under the dash appear impossible for 77 year old hands to reach. I am now going to try disconnecting the lift motor to see if it is draining the battery. If you have any results please let me know. I still do not fully understand the forum as I signed up last week and tried posting this with no success. Please post again if you read this.

2013 mkx 3.7l dohc I am changing out the waterpump , timing chain, secondary chains , guides and tensioners. Well when i finally got the camshaft holding tool to sit down all the way on both sides of the head, I started to break one of the bolts loose and the holding tool came flying off of the cams. I don't know how far the camshaft turned. I had it marked but when I got it back to where it was. (kind of) the little guides that keep the phaser and cam gear in the right spot , are not in the same spot as I marked it before removal. Oh and before I forget. The timing dots are on the bottom when removed. Could I just reinstall them as is? Or do I need to basically start all over making sure the dots are up top at 11 & 1. With the crankshaft gear dot is at 4? Tyia

Before spending a lot to diagnose and replace cooling fan assemblies or relay unit, thoroughly rinse away dust and dirt from both the front, through the grill, and inside directly on fans. Amazingly, this completely fixed my 2012 Lincoln MKX fan problem!

Rather than going to a car wash I have been using Chemical Guys 'Swift Wipe Waterless Car Wash'. This is incredible stuff, it seems to lift dust and dirt off the surface as you wipe instead of grinding into the surface, leaving it smooth, shiny and slippery. The nice thing is water with minerals never touches the surface of my vehicles. I have used this Waterless Car Wash on an MKZ, MKX and now my Nautilus with great results. I purchased one of these... Amazon.com ...to make it easy to apply. With this mop and it's curved handle I can reach the roof and entire front window. Just spray and wipe the mop head over it until it dries a bit or use the second mop head to go over the entire vehicle. It's easy to do and I get done in a short time. Safe on chrome and glass but I found 90% alcohol (using same mop head) is easiest way to do the windows (and quickly self dries). Almost forgot to mention, smells good too, kind'a like bubble gum

no takers?